Some Good Reads

I'm an unlikely mountaineer; I mean, how can you be a mountain climber when you live full time in Minnesota? We have an ancient mountain range in the arrowhead region of the state, but the highest point is Eagle Mountain, a whopping 2,301 ft. above sea level. Geographical challenges not withstanding, I started climbing mountains in 1993 after a good friend of mine from Washington state said, "You should try mountaineering, I think you'd like it." To help me get in the right mood and have a better idea of what I was getting myself into, I read Arlene Blum's book, Annapurna, A Women's Place, about the first American women's team to climb Annapurna. I highly recommend it, even if you never set foot on a mountain. I used passages about their challenges for inspiration as I was facing my own challenges on Mt. Adams, Mt. Baker, and Mt. Olympus my first summer of mountaineering. The next climbing book I read was Into Thin Air by Jon Krakkaur, which tells his first-hand story of the deadly 1996 climbing season on Mt. Everest. It is a harrowing story and one that I think everyone who goes into the mountains should read as it lets us know what can happen when we put getting to the summit ahead of being and staying safe and how seemingly unconnected decisions can lead to tragedy.

Fast forward 10 years to 2007 when I read my next book in the adventure genre, No Shortcuts to the Top by Ed Viesturs. I didn't plan to read it, or even think I wanted to read it, but a copy was sent to me compliments of Mountain Hardware when I ordered a MH jacket from REI. I was a bit annoyed that this book was being foisted upon me, but figured I could always donate it to a book sale. Then I saw an interview with Viesturs and was intrigued by this guy who at my age was the first American to climb the 14 highest peaks in the world without using supplemental oxygen. HIs story is fascinating and one that resonates with me. He has a passion for climbing and lives by the motto " Getting to the top is optional. Getting down is mandatory." That fits with the idea I keep forefront in my mind when I'm climbing, "the mountain will be there another day." I started this book thinking I was going to hear the story of a testosterone-poisoned guy regaling his climbing exploits. Instead I read a thoughtful, moving, and realistic portrayal of what it is like to climb at high altitudes and by extension, what it means to take on a personal challenge.

It has been over 10 years since I have climbed above 20,000 ft and his description of preparing for a summit attempt transported me back to my tent at high camp on Mera Peak in Nepal, trying to consume food and liquids (an extremely difficult task at high elevations), getting dressed and harnessed up in 90 minutes rather than 20, and taking 10 breaths for every 3 steps on our way to the summit. Even if you have never climbed a mountain, I think you will have a good idea of what that experience is like.

I would have enjoyed reading more about some of the high altitude women climbers he knew, but in the end it is his story and he climbed almost exclusively with men. This is one of the better memoirs I've read and encourage anyone who is curious about high altitude climbing, about the making of the Everest IMAX film, or what it takes to be a professional mountain climber to check it out.

Enjoy your summer reading. Shelley