Happy New Year

Today is the last day of 2009 and also the last day of the "oughts". It is also a full moon and a blue moon and a partial lunar eclipse. Energetically speaking - it should be quite a night!

It is typical to make New Years resolutions at this time of year, though I have never been one for that as I like to "take stock" of my life on a more regular basis than once a year. I do like the concept of resolutions - setting a goal for some area of improvement in your life. However, it so often happens that our lofty goals at the beginning of the year fall by the way side after a couple months. Because let's face it - it's hard to make significant changes in our life sometimes without some really strong external factor.

The self-improvement path you embark on will stick much better if you have a proverbial carrot motivating you. We all have different carrots, - signing up for a triathlon, a medical scare, a new partner or newly dating, etc. I have noticed over the past several years of working for Adventures in Good Company that signing up for an active vacation is a great motivator for the resolution to get in better physical condition. In fact, just today we received an email from someone telling us she has started a consistent exercise routine in the past month to get ready for an April trip and she is feeling (and looking) more fit. Even my exercise routine - and my enthusiasm for exercise - gets a boost when I am scheduled to guide a trip. Not only do you have a reason to get in better shape (so you can participate in the physical activities of the trip) but the trip in itself is a reward. It is a VACATION. Going to a beautiful location, having fun, eating good food and relaxing - that's motivation!

Here's wishing you all a Happy New Year! May 2010 be filled with love, light, laughter, health, relaxation and adventure! And maybe even an AIGC trip! deb

Back from the Adirondacks

I just returned from our first joint venture with another company, one where we combined our respective areas of expertise. We have been offering a week-long trip in the Adirondacks at the height of the fall foliage for several years, one that was hiking and paddling with some visits to other sites. This year we worked with WomanTours for a trip that offered three days of biking, two and a half days of hiking, and a day of paddling, and WomanTours owner Jackie Marchand guided it with me. There were times when she missed not having a second full-fledged bike guide or I missed not having a regular hiking or paddling guide. But overall we worked it out and it was fun for me to have a brand new guiding experience.

It was also interesting to see how another company operates and to talk about what challenges we share and which are different. At the beginning of the trip I had a serious case of "trailer envy"-they have a trailer that is outfitted to carry luggage, extra bikes, and kitchen gear which makes setting up picnic lunches so much easier. But then Jackie told me how she plans the schedule around getting the vans with their trailers to the right places at the right times and the challenges of keeping all the bikes in good shape as they are spread out around the country. It makes our equipment challenges seem so minor in comparison! I am happy for Adventures in Good Company to keep offering almost everything but biking and to recommend WomanTours without reservation for any woman looking for a fantastic cycling tour.

Hiking or kayaking as meditation

As I was driving to the airport from our recent hiking trip in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, I was talking with one of the participants in the van about her recent kayaking trip. She said how much she loved kayaking, that when she did it she just became completely absorbed in the movement and the water. I said something about how it was a very meditative activity and that I had the same experience with hiking. She disagreed and said how she had once tried meditation as part of a yoga class and had really disliked it- and as a result the concept of meditation had a very negative connotation for her.

Whether we choose to call it meditation or not, I think for many of us who love being active and love being in nature, there is a common experience of our minds quieting down, the ceaseless internal chatter at least receding into the background, as we become absorbed in the motion and in our surroundings. As this happens, we become more present. I don't hike in order to have this experience, which occurs more rarely than I would like. I hike because I love being out, and I love the way my body feels, and I love seeing panoramic scenery and wildflowers and trees. And when I have those times of feeling completely present - that is a gift.

Welcome Ms Divine!

Deb Malmon, the other full-time person here at Adventures in Good Company, got married last weekend to her long-time partner Sean Divine. You can see pictures of the happy event on our Facebook page . In true guidely fashion, although she did leave her hiking boots at home and trade her hiking pants for a dress, the event took place over the weekend at a campground and the honeymoon suite was a tent. She and Sean arranged almost everything and a lovely time was had by all. She actually is not going to take his last name- she says that Deb Divine sounds like a porn star and besides, she has had her name for 40 years and prefers to keep it.

All of us at Adventures in Good Company congratulate Deb on her marriage and look forward to the time when anyone who wants to make a long-term commitment to his or her partner enjoys the same civil right!

Airline to avoid

Sometimes an airline develops the stink of failure. Two prime symptoms: 1) the prices are low. By itself, this is not necessarily a red flag. But if you couple that with 2) they start canceling flights, then you know they are in trouble. Couple that with 3) bad PR, and you know the low price is because they are desperate to get more fliers. But here's the problem- if you give in to the lure of the low price, are you sure they will still be flying when you have the ticket for? And even if they are still alive, if they are canceling flights left and right, what good does your ticket do anyway?

Last Sunday I was sitting in the Manchester NH airport. My Southwest flight had been rescheduled because of earlier bad weather in the area that had a domino effect. But all the flights were still going, just late. In contrast US Airways had 3 flights. They canceled the first and the last- not rescheduled, but out and out canceled. So anyone who was on the late flight who didn't check flight status (because maybe they were on vacation) would be out of luck. And anyone on the earlier flight would simply get home much later. On that same night one of our guides trying to get to Maine had her US Airways flight canceled and she had to buy a whole new ticket.

So that does it for me. We are not booking any more US Airways flights to anywhere ever again, no matter what the price. Some times it is time for an airline to disappear. I would argue that it is that time for US Airways.

An intriguing new book

Do you like going where there are lots of other people or do you love not seeing another American (or tour group from any country) the entire time? I'm in the latter category and it was one of the things that many of us loved on both the Croatia and the Bulgaria trips. And now there is a book for all of us who feel that way- Off the Tourist Trail: 1,000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives, published by DK Eyewitness Travel.

In nine different chapters (e.g. Ancient and Historical Sights, Natural Wonders, Beaches) the book describes an alternative to some place famous, explains why the famous destination is not what you might hope it will be, and then also lists additional lesser known but wonderful alternatives. It gives practical information for the alternative suggestion and advice if you decide to visit the famous destination anyway. For example, it suggests Bryce Canyon over the Grand Canyon because the Grand Canyon is both crowded and commercialized (not the way we visit it, which is backpacking, but for most people I totally agree). It explains why Bryce is so amazing, where to stay and eat and when to go, what to budget - and suggests if you want to see the Grand Canyon anyway, go to the North Rim. Other alternatives listed include Copper Canyon, Zion Canyon, Waimea Canyon, and Canyon de Chelly.

The book is very well written with gorgeous photographs. My only complaint, and this is minor, is that it is a large book format and costs $40. But I definitely plan to spend some time reading it and see what other ideas it gives me for trips....

Perspective from the US

I got back about a week ago and am finally over jet lag (you know, suddenly at 6 pm you feel like it's the middle of the night). I am always glad to get back to a (mostly) smoke free environment, one of the things I take for granted until I travel abroad and find everyone smoking everywhere. And particularly if I've been traveling someplace where public bathrooms are truly horrendous, I'm glad to return to that luxury too.

But what always strikes me when I leave North America is 1) how isolated we are; and 2) what a young country we are. The isolation hits me when I'm standing in a European airport and see flights taking off to lots of different countries, not just lots of states. And the youth of our country is evident when I am looking at signs of Roman exploration from 100 BC. Yes, there were people living in the US way before there was European "discovery" of this continent, and there is evidence of sophisticated cultures particularly in our Southwest and Mexico and Central America. But those cultures do not inform our current culture in the same way that the Roman Empire impacts European culture. Our isolation and our newness are not good or bad- they are simply facts of our existence that shape pur experience in ways that are more difficult to discern from inside the US.

Staying at the Hostel Mostel

The trip officially ended today. Our last major activity, climbing Mt Mussala, got rained out. However, everyone seemed to have an excellent day. Activities included hiking in the rain (an option only 5 of us decided to do), taking naps, getting massages, going for shorter walks, swimming in the pool etc.

So now I'm in Sofia, flying out tomorrow, and staying at the Hostel Mostel. Honestly I was regretting this decision earlier today - tired after 3 weeks of traveling, I just wanted to go into a vegetative state. However, the moment I walked thru the door into this little oasis off the street with lots of places to sit, internet access, a TV, books, and a pool table, I knew it was the right place to stay. I am definitely significantly increasing the average age of the guests here and I am not totally wild about sharing a room with 7 other people of both sexes (although that isn't any different than staying in an Appalachian Mt Club hut) but I've already chatted with 2 young men who are starting a journey back by rail to England (their chief concern was the whether beer is cheap in Bulgaria, which it is) and 2 young women from Holland just finishing their 9 day trip here. I was never one of those people who traveled around Europe with a backpack as a young woman so I'm happy to be reliving the youth I didn't have - a iftting end to this long adventure.

Sustainable tourism in Bulgaria

We've all heard of or been to places that have been ruined, or at least changed for the worse, by becoming popular tourist destinations. The concept of sustainable tourism is that it is tourism that is at least not damaging to and at best enhances the lives of the people who live there. Because it is an "in" concept right now, it is also susceptible to gross marketing manipulation. There is also the tricky issue that any place or person who becomes reliant on tourism may end up being less self reliant if tourism goes down in flames for either global or local reasons.

A couple of days ago here in Bulgaria we experienced how it really can work. We visited 2 Bulgarian Muslim sisters who fed us a delicious traditional meal in their home, sang some traditional songs, dressed up one of our members in a wedding outfit and explained wedding customs, and then demonstrated their weaving. In addition to their being paid for this, we bought some of their handicrafts.

Now this could be a dog and pony show where everyone was uncomfortable. It wasn't. They were so obviously proud of their traditions and we were so obviously interested in learning. And I really believe that when people see others taking interest in their skills and way of life, it increases their pride in those things. In addition these visits supplement but don't replace their income. It was truly a phenomenal experience and to me is sustainable tourism at its best.

I'll be posting some video when I get back.

Yagodina

Yagodina is a remote mountain village in the middle of the Rhodope Mountains. An old mosque and women dressed in traditional clothing are the only remnants of its former Muslim character, which is a remnant of the 500 years that Bulgaria was under the Turkish yoke (everyone uses the term "yoke" to describe the Turkish oppression). It is in an incredibly beautiful setting but the town itself has seen hard times. The average age of the population is probably 60 and there are children here, but not as many as you would expect. Still a recent resurgence of tourism may hekp it survive. We are staying in a beautiful family ruin hotel with comfortable rooms and osm eof the best food in I've eaten in Bularia.

Despite forecasts of rain the weather was beautiful today as we hiked along an old Roman road to the Trigrad gorge. Along the way we met an old man who was building a fireplace and then stopped to explain to us what he was doing, posed for pictures, and then sang us Balkan folk songs. He was a good singer and I could have listened for hours. We then continued to Devil's Throat cave, where Orpheus entered the underworld in search of his dead wife Eurydice. It's a huge cave with a rushing underground river. Our next stop was Yagodina cave, one of the biggest in Bulgaria and with more natural features intact (such as stalactites) than any cave I've been in - it was quite spectacular. An hour walk back to Yagodina, a hot shower and another fantastic dinner and I'm ready for bed.

In Bulgaria

In the small town of Asenovgrad. It is known for making bridal dresses and I've never seen so many bridal shops in my life. Even here there is stray wifi if you walk the streets. I love this country, it is so beautiful and contradictory. Plus the food is delicious, always a good thing.

Sitting in the Split airport

Our 8 day sea kayak trip in Croatia's Kornati National Park ended today. It was an amazing trip, wonderful kayaking and perfect weather. We paddled under high cliffs on a sea so clear you could see 20 feet down. Every morning started with coffee Crostian-style, meaning strong and sweet. We then paddled all day, stopping to stretch our legs, visit Rpman ruins and eat lunch on the beach . Some nights we slept in tents and some nights we slept on the beach, lulled to sleep by the lapping of waves. No wifi, no TV. Our novice paddler became a powerhouse and our small group of five a closeknit community. And now I 'm waiting for a plane to fly back to London so I can sleep five hours before flying to Bulgaria, away from the sea and back to mountains.

Made it to London

I have 22 hours here before getting on the flight to Croatia so I decided to visit an old friend who is here on sabbatical. After a brief nap and a strong cup of tea, we decided to go out walking. She is staying near a canal so we set out to explore the canal system. During our walk we passed Old St Pancras Church and gardens, which we decided to visit. Just stepping into the gardens was immediately peaceful and felt far removed from the city. The church is the oldest Christian site on the UK. As we were about to leave I was looking at the list of vicars dating back 100s of years-and there in 1607 was my father's name, Francis Marbury. It felt so strange to see it there even though I'm sure the relationship is distant. We also saw the grave of Mary Wollstonecraft, a 1700s feminist who wrote "A Vindication of the Rights of Women". I love the unexpected that always happens when you travel.

Rock Climbing and Yoga in Joshua Tree

The new airfare search engine

You may have herd of Bing, MSN's latest attempt to take some of the search engine business from Google. Of more interest to travelers is Bing Travel (http://www.bing.com/travel/), their new travel search engine. The interface is very similar to www.kayak.com - very flexible and intuitive, allowing you to search many options without having to start over (e.g. using different airports, leaving before or after a certain time, acceptability of red eyes and number of connections). I find myself using these options all the time so I have come to depend on them. What Bing adds, however, is integration with Farecast, the website that predicts whether airfares will go up, down, or stay the same. I would guess that their predictions may have been a little off this year because no one foresaw the precipitous decline in airfares coming. But still, they claim 75% accuracy and that seems better than tossing a coin. They also have various attempts at creating "community", the latest marketing buzzword, with blogs and Facebook and Twitter - this is less appealing to me because who has time to read blogs unless you have a specific reason to (on the other hand it would be totally cool if your search for specific flight itineraries or hotels brought up relevant blogs). In any case I will probably continue to compare kayak and bing for awhile but it is likely that bing will become my travel search engine of choice if I don't find any bugs with it.

Havasu Canyon and change

I was updating our Havasu Canyon trip description today. If I ever need a reminder that geology is as constantly changing now as it was a million years ago, this trip provides it. The Canyon's Navajo Falls was one of my favorite places in the U.S., an absolutely spectacular curtain waterfall that seemed unknown to the larger population who visit the Canyon. It was an absolutely magic place to swim, jumping from the walls, standing under pounding water, sitting in travertine concavities and letting the water sweep past. Mooney Falls and Beaver Falls are pretty nice too - actually they are also amazing - but Navajo was the best. Last August one of the periodic flash floods, this one worse than usual, ripped it out. Something will replace it- like everything else the canyon continues to change - but I'll miss it.

Geology Musings

Geology is a fairly recent topic of interest for me. One of the big impediments was finding books that talked about it at my level, and didn't immediately make my eyes glaze over with chemistry and physics. One of my favorites is the Geology Underfoot series, where they the authors talk about specific landscapes of specific places, and why they are the way they are. I even finally understand what a syncline is!
But aside from the lack of good books, I think it had something to do with my living mostly in the east and midwest. When I finally got beyond my hike further faster phase and wanted to spend more time learning about the environment I was hiking in, it was the trees and wildflowers I first learned (I'm definitely one of these people that finds being able to name things makes me feel more at home there). It was only when I started doing more hiking out west that my curiosity about the geology of the area got aroused. And clearly it's because the geology is so compelling there- LOOK AT ME! LOOK AT HOW AMAZING AND UNPREDICTABLE I AM! Or at least that's how it seems to me. And it made me wonder if all geologists were born or lived out west.

Hiking in Joshua Tree National Park

I spent much of today working on the only new trip we're offering in winter 2010: a hiking trip in Joshua Tree National Park. The idea first came when I was there for our annual rock climbing trip this past spring. It was the first time I'd been there in several years and I realized once again what a truly unique place it is, with its granite boulders erupting in all sorts of unexpected ways. Over the past 20 years I've backpacked and hiked there, but mostly rock climbed. But there is so much more there than climbing! And not only is the hiking varied and fun, it is a wonderful place to camp. The campsites there are beautiful and, other than on weekends, largely deserted. And while we always have tents for everyone, it is a wonderful and bug-free place to sleep outside. There is something about snuggling in a sleeping bag under a star-filled sky that is cozier than the warmest bed. Working on finalizing the itinerary made me excited about it all over again!