An intriguing new book

Do you like going where there are lots of other people or do you love not seeing another American (or tour group from any country) the entire time? I'm in the latter category and it was one of the things that many of us loved on both the Croatia and the Bulgaria trips. And now there is a book for all of us who feel that way- Off the Tourist Trail: 1,000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives, published by DK Eyewitness Travel.

In nine different chapters (e.g. Ancient and Historical Sights, Natural Wonders, Beaches) the book describes an alternative to some place famous, explains why the famous destination is not what you might hope it will be, and then also lists additional lesser known but wonderful alternatives. It gives practical information for the alternative suggestion and advice if you decide to visit the famous destination anyway. For example, it suggests Bryce Canyon over the Grand Canyon because the Grand Canyon is both crowded and commercialized (not the way we visit it, which is backpacking, but for most people I totally agree). It explains why Bryce is so amazing, where to stay and eat and when to go, what to budget - and suggests if you want to see the Grand Canyon anyway, go to the North Rim. Other alternatives listed include Copper Canyon, Zion Canyon, Waimea Canyon, and Canyon de Chelly.

The book is very well written with gorgeous photographs. My only complaint, and this is minor, is that it is a large book format and costs $40. But I definitely plan to spend some time reading it and see what other ideas it gives me for trips....

Perspective from the US

I got back about a week ago and am finally over jet lag (you know, suddenly at 6 pm you feel like it's the middle of the night). I am always glad to get back to a (mostly) smoke free environment, one of the things I take for granted until I travel abroad and find everyone smoking everywhere. And particularly if I've been traveling someplace where public bathrooms are truly horrendous, I'm glad to return to that luxury too.

But what always strikes me when I leave North America is 1) how isolated we are; and 2) what a young country we are. The isolation hits me when I'm standing in a European airport and see flights taking off to lots of different countries, not just lots of states. And the youth of our country is evident when I am looking at signs of Roman exploration from 100 BC. Yes, there were people living in the US way before there was European "discovery" of this continent, and there is evidence of sophisticated cultures particularly in our Southwest and Mexico and Central America. But those cultures do not inform our current culture in the same way that the Roman Empire impacts European culture. Our isolation and our newness are not good or bad- they are simply facts of our existence that shape pur experience in ways that are more difficult to discern from inside the US.

Staying at the Hostel Mostel

The trip officially ended today. Our last major activity, climbing Mt Mussala, got rained out. However, everyone seemed to have an excellent day. Activities included hiking in the rain (an option only 5 of us decided to do), taking naps, getting massages, going for shorter walks, swimming in the pool etc.

So now I'm in Sofia, flying out tomorrow, and staying at the Hostel Mostel. Honestly I was regretting this decision earlier today - tired after 3 weeks of traveling, I just wanted to go into a vegetative state. However, the moment I walked thru the door into this little oasis off the street with lots of places to sit, internet access, a TV, books, and a pool table, I knew it was the right place to stay. I am definitely significantly increasing the average age of the guests here and I am not totally wild about sharing a room with 7 other people of both sexes (although that isn't any different than staying in an Appalachian Mt Club hut) but I've already chatted with 2 young men who are starting a journey back by rail to England (their chief concern was the whether beer is cheap in Bulgaria, which it is) and 2 young women from Holland just finishing their 9 day trip here. I was never one of those people who traveled around Europe with a backpack as a young woman so I'm happy to be reliving the youth I didn't have - a iftting end to this long adventure.

Sustainable tourism in Bulgaria

We've all heard of or been to places that have been ruined, or at least changed for the worse, by becoming popular tourist destinations. The concept of sustainable tourism is that it is tourism that is at least not damaging to and at best enhances the lives of the people who live there. Because it is an "in" concept right now, it is also susceptible to gross marketing manipulation. There is also the tricky issue that any place or person who becomes reliant on tourism may end up being less self reliant if tourism goes down in flames for either global or local reasons.

A couple of days ago here in Bulgaria we experienced how it really can work. We visited 2 Bulgarian Muslim sisters who fed us a delicious traditional meal in their home, sang some traditional songs, dressed up one of our members in a wedding outfit and explained wedding customs, and then demonstrated their weaving. In addition to their being paid for this, we bought some of their handicrafts.

Now this could be a dog and pony show where everyone was uncomfortable. It wasn't. They were so obviously proud of their traditions and we were so obviously interested in learning. And I really believe that when people see others taking interest in their skills and way of life, it increases their pride in those things. In addition these visits supplement but don't replace their income. It was truly a phenomenal experience and to me is sustainable tourism at its best.

I'll be posting some video when I get back.

Yagodina

Yagodina is a remote mountain village in the middle of the Rhodope Mountains. An old mosque and women dressed in traditional clothing are the only remnants of its former Muslim character, which is a remnant of the 500 years that Bulgaria was under the Turkish yoke (everyone uses the term "yoke" to describe the Turkish oppression). It is in an incredibly beautiful setting but the town itself has seen hard times. The average age of the population is probably 60 and there are children here, but not as many as you would expect. Still a recent resurgence of tourism may hekp it survive. We are staying in a beautiful family ruin hotel with comfortable rooms and osm eof the best food in I've eaten in Bularia.

Despite forecasts of rain the weather was beautiful today as we hiked along an old Roman road to the Trigrad gorge. Along the way we met an old man who was building a fireplace and then stopped to explain to us what he was doing, posed for pictures, and then sang us Balkan folk songs. He was a good singer and I could have listened for hours. We then continued to Devil's Throat cave, where Orpheus entered the underworld in search of his dead wife Eurydice. It's a huge cave with a rushing underground river. Our next stop was Yagodina cave, one of the biggest in Bulgaria and with more natural features intact (such as stalactites) than any cave I've been in - it was quite spectacular. An hour walk back to Yagodina, a hot shower and another fantastic dinner and I'm ready for bed.

In Bulgaria

In the small town of Asenovgrad. It is known for making bridal dresses and I've never seen so many bridal shops in my life. Even here there is stray wifi if you walk the streets. I love this country, it is so beautiful and contradictory. Plus the food is delicious, always a good thing.

Sitting in the Split airport

Our 8 day sea kayak trip in Croatia's Kornati National Park ended today. It was an amazing trip, wonderful kayaking and perfect weather. We paddled under high cliffs on a sea so clear you could see 20 feet down. Every morning started with coffee Crostian-style, meaning strong and sweet. We then paddled all day, stopping to stretch our legs, visit Rpman ruins and eat lunch on the beach . Some nights we slept in tents and some nights we slept on the beach, lulled to sleep by the lapping of waves. No wifi, no TV. Our novice paddler became a powerhouse and our small group of five a closeknit community. And now I 'm waiting for a plane to fly back to London so I can sleep five hours before flying to Bulgaria, away from the sea and back to mountains.